When getting ready to use a new truck camper you have to think about safety, comfort, and cost.

Safety is the most important thing of course, and that starts with matching the correct camper to your truck.  If you put a camper that is too large onto your truck you will have a vehicle that is unsafe to drive.  Your truck may be able to be upgraded to handle the camper, so call us and we can recommend the proper modifications to your truck.  Often air bags, new your truck, truck for your camper, or the perfect combo of both starting from scratch.  If you are towing something you must also take those weights into consideration in addition to the weight of the camper.

Of course you don't want to spend too much money on something you will not use very often, so we try very hard to help our customers save money with the best possible prices on new equipment and a good selection of used equipment.

Check your cabover clearance before you try to load your camper.  You may need a platform to raise the camper so that the camper does not hit the top of your truck.  For example, 2 recent inventory units, a 1997 Shadow Cruiser and a 2000 Bigfoot, both required a 3.5" platform in order to clear the cab on our 2003 Ford F350 Crew Cab.  A 2002 Arctic Fox required no platform even with clearance lights on the truck.

Use a rubber mat or horse stall mat to protect your bed or spray-in bed liner.  With a drop-in bed liner you should still use one so that your camper doesn't slide around.

Make sure you have the proper wiring in place because most campers cover your truck's rear lights.  We sell Torklift's wiring adapters that connect to your truck's round 7-way plug so that you don't have to splice into the truck's wiring.  If your camper's refrigerator can be powered from 12V DC, then you should not use this option.  Have your local trailer shop wire the plug into your truck's bed in the driver's side front corner.  They MUST use an 8G or larger wire for the +12V and -12V.  The +12V must be run directly to the battery and have a 40A breaker on the line.  This will provide sufficient power to run your refrigerator and charge your camper battery while the truck is running.  A solenoid should also be installed in the +12V line so that 12V power is only active when the truck is running.  Failing to do this will result in the fridge draining the truck battery when the truck is not running.  They should charge between $125 and $200 for this service.

Have your tie-downs in place.  We strongly recommend Torklift's frame mounted tie-downs.  While we sell the Happijac products upon request, they are an inferior design.

If you need help with any of this, contact us.  We love to talk truck campers.

Long bed vs. Short bed:

If you have not yet purchased your truck you should decide whether or not you want a long or short bed truck. Long bed trucks are better for towing a 5th wheel, or anything else for that matter. The longer wheelbase makes it tow better and handle a heavier and bigger trailer with less effort. If you can get a “dually” or dual rear wheel truck, that’s even better. They tow much better than a single rear wheel truck. For 5th wheel towing it is especially important to have a long bed truck because most 5th wheel trailers are made to accommodate long bed trucks. If you have a short bed truck you USUALLY must have what’ s called a “slider” 5th wheel hitch. On a short bed truck if you make a sharp turn the corner of the camper can cram into the corner of the truck cab or bust out your back window. We see it all the time, probably about once a week on average a customer will call with their story of crumpled camper and truck. People tow with short bed trucks all the time, they just have to use a different 5th wheel hitch. Most people use a manual slider which is just a 5th wheel hitch which sits on a sliding mechanism that can be unlatched and the hitch can move back 10 to 12”. You do this by:

1. Getting out of the truck
2. Releasing a latch on the 5th wheel hitch in the truck bed
3. Getting back in the truck
4. Pulling the truck forward, which in turn slides the trailer back
5. Get out of the truck
6. Relatch the slider mechanism so the hitch won’t move
7. Get back in the truck
8. Make your sharp turn.

You must then reverse the process when you want to drive off at speed. It is unsafe to tow a 5th wheel trailer at speed with the pin weight behind the truck axle so you have to slide it back forward. Many people still cram the camper into the truck even when they have a slider because they forget to slide it back. An automatic slider is far better.

An automatic slider will move back automatically as you turn so you don’t have to do anything. You don’t have to get out of the truck. It tows as if you had a long bed truck. Why doesn’t everyone use an automatic slider then with a short bed truck? $$$. They cost a lot more. Full 5th wheel kits with slider start at about $600. Full 5th wheel kits with an automatic slider start at $1900. If you can afford the cost though, they are far superior. We carry the Pullrite and Hijacker brand automatic slider hitches.

Some trailers have an extended pin box which makes it unnecessary to have a slider. This means that the king pin sits forward of the trailer rather than under the overhang. These pin boxes often look like a triangle. More newer trailers are being built this way because short bed trucks are more popular than ever. If you are having your trailer custom built you can request an extended pin box. And now to make things even more complicated, you can often change out your pin box for a cushioned pin box adding the benefit of reduced bouncing and chucking and putting an extended pin box in place of your standard pin box.

And to make things even more complicated, Fifth Airborne makes a product called the Sidewinder which replaces your pin box with a special arm that extends forward but rotates under the king pin, allowing sharp turns with a short bed truck. These are fairly expensive, even more so if you go with their cushioned version called the Fifth Airborne Sidewinder! This is an excellent solution for short bed truck drivers though.

Hitch features and quality:

Fifth wheel hitches aren’t all made the same either. Our biggest seller is the cheapest 5th wheel available: the Reese 30056 15k 5th wheel kit. It is a basic 5th wheel with pivoting head and a basic round bar locking jaw. The price is excellent and the quality is good. These were released in 2007 and have sold like hotcakes because of the price. They are made in China, which is how they got the cost down so low. We also sell a lot of more expensive 5th wheel hitches. What’s the difference?

Head design:

Most hitches have a pivoting head. This means that the top of the 5th wheel can tilt so that if you’re trying to hook up to your trailer and it is on uneven ground the head will accommodate it. Most will pivot front to back and side to side. Sometimes it is bad to have it tilt side to side as it can cause instability if you are towing a car carrier. For most applications, especially for towing a camper, it is very good to have the side-to-side pivot.

Removable rails:

Standard 5th wheel hitch rails remain the truck bed when you pull out your 5th wheel hitch. They usually only sit a couple inches high off the floor of the truck, but if this is inconvenient for you then some manufacturer’s offer a removable rail kit that is completely removable from the truck. These add expense to your initial purchase.

Profile:

The wider a 5th wheel hitch sits on the rails the more stable it is.

Locking jaw:

The locking jaw is the part of the 5th wheel hitch that grips the king pin of the trailer. There are several locking jaw designs available. The most basic is a round bar locking jaw. This has the most play or “slop” in it. Reese’s Pro Series models use this type of locking jaw. Pullrite’s 5th wheels uses a full wraparound locking jaw that has contact all the way around the king pin and will have less play and a more solid connection. They use their own patented wraparound locking jaw that works extremely well and has less play. You pay more to have a hitch with a better locking jaw.

Towing capacity:

Purchase a 5th wheel hitch that is rated for more than you will be towing. Did we even need to tell you that?

Advantages of 5th wheel camping:

5th wheel campers have become more popular lately for several reasons:

Versatility:

With a truck and 5th wheel camper you have the ability to use your truck for other things and stow the camper when it’s not in use. Separating motor and RV. If you have a traditional RV the drivetrain is part of the RV and is useless when you’re not using the RV. You must maintain this vehicle which is usually rarely driven, and insure it. 5th wheel campers will be less expensive to insure and will require less maintenance. You can get to the campground and tool around town in your truck, leaving the camper at the campsite. With a motorhome you would have to tow a car behind it, dealing with tow bars and difficulty in backing up.

Size:

5th wheel trailers are available in a lot of different sizes. Extremely large 5th wheel campers are available with a several slideouts. It’s easy these days to spend 6 figures on a 5th wheel.

Price:

It costs less to purchase a 5th wheel camper than an equivalent sized motorhome because you don’t have to pay for a drivetrain.

Towing stability:

5th wheel trailers tow far better than travel trailers which are pulled off of the bumper. This is because the tongue weight is over the axle of the tow vehicle. You won’t experience nearly as much sway. This is why trailers are available in longer lengths and bigger sizes in 5th wheel configurations than they are in bumper pull configurations.

Now you know a little bit about 5th wheel hitches. It is a complicated subject, and the safety of your equipment and its occupants depends upon your understanding of how a 5th wheel hitch works. The best thing to do when configuring your equipment is to call us: the experts. We can help you get set up to tow safely and effectively.

Understanding Upgrade 5th wheel pin boxes

Upgrading your pin box on your camper is a great way to improve your comfort while towing. Your truck is equipped with suspension components to absorb shock and so is your camper, but the connection between your camper and your truck is just a fixed metal-on-metal connection. This is why you will often feel a harsh bouncing or chucking action as the truck and trailer push and pull against each other. There are some great products available that can greatly reduce or eliminate these issues. Customers describe it as a “night and day” difference. The larger your trailer is the more likely you will benefit from a pin box that can absorb some of the shock created between truck and trailer. Choices:

Demco Glide Ride:

The Demco Glide Ride replaces your pin box with one that can swing fore and aft, smoothing out the motion in that direction. It can also absorb some up and down motion as well. Here is a description from the manufacturer:

The Glide Ride by Demco is a uniquely designed parallel linkage coupler that takes the bumps and jolts out of pulling heavy 5th wheel RV's.

Without the Glide Ride, the bumps and jolts of the road put extreme stress on your RV and trucks drive train, suspension, body and tires. The results of which can render costly repairs, shorter vehicle life and a very uncomfortable ride.

The Glide Ride:

Absorbs bumps and jolts through a gravity, self-centering parallel linkage system. Greatly reduces stress and fatigue at the hitch point. Maintenance Free.

1. Doesn't effect braking or steering.
2. Helps prolong the life of your truck and RV.
3. Makes a smoother more pleasant ride.
4. Up to 21,000 lbs. G.V.W.R.

Models available for many popular late model fifth-wheel trailers. Call Demco for the proper application.

MorRyde:

The MorRyde pin box uses a thick rubber square to absorb some shock. It does not do much for up and down motion but stretches in a horizontal plane to absorb chucking. A description from the manufacturer:

The MOR/ryde pin box system utilizes a unique rubber shear spring to positively deal with this rough, towing road shock. The rubber spring works in a horizontal planar motion (in a longitudinal and lateral motion) to absorb the towing shock. This allows the MOR/ryde pin box system to effectively diminish the transfer of forces from the trailer to the truck.

Fifth Airborne:

The Fifth Airborne pin box uses both a shock absorber and an air spring to both absorb chucking and bouncing forces. The air spring can be filled to the proper pressure to level to match the load.A description from the manufacturer:

The 5th Airborne coupler,with its innovative forward pivot design,out- performed both leading competitors. Test measurements were recorded in both the vertical (air-ride softening)direction and the longitudinal (anti-chucking)direction. The documented results proved that the 5th Airborne performed signi ficantly better in both orientations.

We hope this information will help you make an informed decision when upgrading your pin box. Feel free to call us with any questions. We are glad to give you our opinions on what will work best for your application.

Written by Gordon White, courtesy TruckCamperMagazine.com

Friday, 26 January 2007

“No way,” exclaimed my wife upon first hearing my description of a truck camper. Of course she had never really looked at a truck camper, much less been in one.

You can hardly blame my wife for her initial doubts about RVing in a truck camper. “Way too small,” she thought. Just six months later we were traveling the United States and Canada in a truck camper, and absolutely loving it.

What happened? Two things. First, we were both impressed with the luxurious appointments and features of modern truck campers. And two, after months of research, we learned how a truck camper would allow us to do more and spend less. A lot less.

This article covers the top ten most significant benefits of truck camper ownership. There are many other benefits, but these are the real stand outs.

1. Go Anywhere a Pick-Up Truck Can Go

From white sandy beaches, to unpaved back roads, to regular parking spaces, to the driveways of family and friends, truck campers can go anywhere a pick-up truck can go. This opens up the possibilities of where you can camp and explore many, many times over.

Other RV types make up for this by towing cars or detaching their trucks when they can’t access an area due to size, durability, or restriction issues. These solutions work okay, but they add considerable expense and complexity that simply doesn’t apply to truck campers.

If you’re at all interested in seeing more than highways, parking lots, and RV parks, keep a truck camper’s ‘go anywhere’ advantage in mind. It’s amazing.

2. Superior Maneuverability

When you’re traveling into areas that you’ve never been to before, the ability to quickly turn around can be critical. The turning radius of modern pick-up trucks is light years ahead of most RVs. Combined with the shorter length of a truck camper, the turning radius allows you to turn around quickly without needing a large empty parking lot to do it.

Backing up can also be a real challenge in longer and less maneuverable RVs. Again the qualities of modern trucks and the efficient size of truck campers make backing up a breeze. And in wind, rain, or snow, modern trucks have excellent traction and control.

There have been plenty of times when turning around, backing up, and staying confidently in control have made us more than glad to be driving a truck camper versus any other type of RV.

3. Boondocking - Camp Where You Want For FREE

There are four main reasons why boondocking is easier and better in a truck camper. First, you can go more places that are off the beaten path in a truck camper. Second, the shorter length of a truck camper allows you to stay in smaller places where other RVs could not fit. Third, truck campers fly under the RV radar a little better than other types of RVs and attract less attention. And fourth, many truck campers have more than enough battery and holding tank capacity to last several days without hook-ups. Add solar panels and/or a generator and a few days could turn into a week or more.

When other types of RVs are looking for an expensive RV park, you’ll be looking for an interesting and FREE place to stay for the night. In practice this means saving lots of time and money and waking up to more than another RV ten feet away.

4. Competitive Purchase Price

The purchase price of a truck camper ranges from $8,000 for a basic pop-up to $50,000 for a loaded multi-slide-out hard-side model. Trucks range from $20,000 for a half-ton to $50,000+ for a one-ton. In other words, you can spend under $30,000 on a new truck camping rig or upwards of $100,000 on a state-of-the-art rig. Go used for the truck or camper and those numbers can drop considerably. These prices are very competitive with other RV types.

5. Save On Fuel

Your fuel costs in a truck camper will depend greatly on your truck and camper combo. Most truck campers claim 10 to 15 miles per gallon. These numbers are on par or better than other types of RVs.

The big fuel advantage of truck campers is that you can get an efficient diesel truck and push that 15 mile per gallon number. Some claim upwards of 18 and even 20 miles per gallon in their truck camping rig while others burn bio-diesel or vegetable oil to potentially save money and help the environment.

6. Save On Registration & Insurance

Most states do not require truck campers to be registered. And for most insurance companies, the camper is insured with your truck. Of course you should check your state’s registration laws and talk with your insurance company. Compared to other types of RVs that require separate registration and insurance, this can be a very, very big savings.

7. Save On Maintenance

Your truck should be maintained as any truck should with regular oil changes and service. The advantage is that trucks cost considerably less to service and repair than motorhomes and there are thousands more places to get service and repair compared to motorhomes.

You can get an oil change anywhere that has a tall service bay. We’ve had our oil changed at Ford, Chevy, and Dodge truck dealerships, Wal-Marts, and even Jiffy Lube service centers.

As for the campers, they are built better and need less maintenance than other forms of RVs. They have less moving parts (no wheels) and are built to handle the stress of sitting in the bed of a truck. You will have to maintain your truck camper, but generally speaking, your maintenance issues should take less time and less money than any another RV type would require.

8. Save On Storage

Truck campers are often small enough to store on your property. If not, their smaller size will allow you to pay less for storage in a storage lot. Either way, you’re saving a significant amount of money on storage fees.

9. Save On Depreciation

Make no mistake, all RVs depreciate - a lot. The good news is that because truck campers are built better, they tend to hold their values better too. This is a particular benefit when compared to motorhomes which lose resale value for every mile added to their odometers.

10. Save When You Upgrade

As the truck and camper are physically separate units, you can decide to upgrade your truck and keep your camper or vice versa. Many truck campers decide to upgrade their campers while keeping their trucks. Others decide that they want a more capable truck and upgrade their truck while keeping their campers. This flexibility can save a considerable amount of money compared to trading up whole motorhomes.

In Conclusion - Truck Campers Rock!

You really can do a lot more and spend a lot less with a truck camper. We didn’t even mention how great truck campers are for towing your boat, horse trailer, ATVs, snowmobiles, and other toys. It gets better!

The real proof is when you're sitting in a truck camper and it feels right. You'll know. For those of us who go truck camping, the feeling is unmistakable.

When someone tells you a hitch has “active” sway control or “self-centering” abilities they’re only telling you half the story. Active sway control resists sway in one direction but then can increase sway in the other direction. Let me explain.

When a trailer catches a gust of wind, say from a passing semi, the trailer can swing to the side. Active sway control correctly resists the trailer’s movement away from the “centered” position. However, when the trailer reaches the apex of this out-of-center movement and reverses direction moving back toward the center, the “active” sway control hitch actually adds momentum back toward center. Unfortunately the active force can propel the trailer past the center line behind the tow vehicle.

“Active” sway control propels the swaying trailer back in the other direction. To help you picture this reaction, imagine a swinging child with someone pushing from both sides. The child doesn’t stop at the bottom of the arc. Instead, their momentum carries them through the bottom and up the other side. All the pusher has to do is keep that momentum going with a light shove.

That same principal is true when applied to “active” or self-centering hitch technology. The trailer doesn’t just stop centered behind the tow vehicle, the active force swings the trailer past the center where the sway is once again resisted when it reaches the apex and again starts back toward center; the pattern can repeat over and over again. The trailer is consistently pushed or propelled back in the opposite direction never allowing it to realign with the trailer. Without the active pushing the swing would eventually stop straight, but with the active propulsion in both directions, the sway can keep going and going and going. That’s great if you’re on a swing - not so great if you’re towing an out of control trailer.

I recommend Continuous Resistance Sway Control to help prevent sway instead of “actively” trying to correct it. Continuous Resistance sway control (sometimes referred to as “passive sway control”) uses the resistive friction force of steel sliding against steel; creating resistance to sway movement before it starts.

Let’s continue with the swing example. Instead of having a person on each side pushing the swing, imagine two people on each side very close to the swing holding the chains. With their arms outstretched, their goals is to resist the child’s swinging out of the center in the first place.

They are resisting the child’s movement keeping the swing centered and straight. Now imagine a strong gust of wind pushes all three to one side. The “pushers” would resist that outward movement, and then gradually let the child come back to rest at the bottom. Not fun for the child, but a great choice of sway control for a trailer.

Contrary to active sway control, when using continuous resistance the trailer is not pushed to the opposite side and propelled across the center line repeatedly. With continuous resistance the trailer is allowed to move when necessary, but any movement in any direction, out or back, must overcome the continuous friction resistance of the hitch.

We are proud to provide superior sway control performance by building continuous resistance into our Equal-i-zer® hitch. The Original Equal-i-zer Sway Control Hitch is a premium hitch product that helps people have a safe and enjoyable towing experience. Help us clear up the confusion about integrated sway control performance. Explain the difference, then recommend the premium, continuous resistance sway control of the Original Equal-i-zer hitch.